Mane Kancor

With the watch word for consumerism being natural, how are personal care companies coping to become more conscientious in their product line

Millennials seamlessly integrate with technology — they’ve grown with it — and have had immense exposure to information. So, when the next generation of consumers start to choose cleaner, natural & sustainable products — it is not a decision made out of curiosity or to follow a trend; it is an informed choice made by consumers who are very consciously and carefully selecting who and what they want to associate themselves with. Shopping ethically is the new mantra in consumerism. One that is gaining traction with market research reports claiming up to 78% growth in clean and natural CPG products since 2019.

This is a serious wake-up call to industries in the personal care segment. And while most of the big names have foreseen this and have gone back to the drawing board, to design products with natural formulae; there is one big hurdle to overcome — Shelf life. The trouble with using natural ingredients is that, it has low shelf life and hence is prone to changes in composition and profiles over time. Before one can reinvent these products, it may prove useful to understand the ingredients that go into them.

Cosmetic and Personal Care products can have anywhere between 15–50 ingredients. Of which emollients, fragrances and colour pigments are key.

Let’s look at each one of them, and how ingredient innovation is changing the face of the personal care space.

Emollients — A soft touch of nature

First up, Emollients. For the layman these are any ingredients that helps make skin softer. Vegetables oils, nut butters and plant waxes are some of the more known naturally sourced emollients. One of the most used natural emollient in hair care, make up, depilatories, cleansing and bath products; is Sunflower seed oil.

Known to be a rich source of Vitamin E, Sunflower oil unfortunately in its natural state is highly prone to oxidation. Thus, lowering shelf life of any product that employs it.

However, studies using natural anti-oxidants like Rosemary extracts have given new life to Sunflower seed oil. Accelerated stability tests using the industry standard ‘Rancimat induction time Analysis’ shows clearly a 70% improvement in oxidative stability of Sunflower oil when it is stabilized with a natural antioxidant.

Fragrance — Natural attraction

Next up is Fragrance. A key player in human culture and personal grooming since for several centuries now. The earliest ‘perfumer’ is mentioned in a Mesopotamian cuneiform tablet from the 2nd Millenium BC! Her name was Tapputi.

You can imagine that a lot of innovation has happened in fragrance since Tapputi began mixing her vials. Today natural essential oil and terpenoids are used to create pleasing fragrances.

One of the most commonly used fragrance ingredients is Linalool. A monoterpenoid found in many plants and spices, which is extensively used in the formulation of perfumes, cleansing and skin care products. However, oxidation of Linalool not only lowers shelf life but also results in Linalool peroxides that could be a potential allergen. Thus, improving the oxidative stability of linalool is paramount.

Once again Rosemary extracts, has shown incredible results in improving the stability of Linaloolas a key fragrance ingredient. During tests with Rosemary, the oxidative stability of Linalool was found to be improved by 65%.

Colour — Beauty, naturally

Finally, we have colour. Lipsticks, mascara and a host of cosmetic shades has always used synthetic colours in the past. However, over the last decade, demand for natural cosmetics have turned companies to sourcing natural colours. Mother nature has an array of shades in its basket. Beetroot, carrot, berries, annatto; are just a few fruits and vegetables that have the most incredible colour.

Annatto and Beta-carotene are some of the most used natural colours in cosmetic products. It is a yellow-orange pigment that can result in some exciting shades. And yet is prone to oxidation of a different variety. The oxidation of these ingredients is accelerated by natural light. The more hours in the sun, the quicker the colour fades. Which is why consumers are found needing a touch-up now and then.

To combat this, once again the specialists call on Rosemary. In lab tests the inclusion of Rosemary extracts slows down the oxidation rates of natural colours.

The values to watch for are ‘a’ and ‘b’ as they represent the orange and yellow hues values in the table below.

The Miraculous Rosemary

There’s no doubt as to the heroine of the moment. Rosemary extracts, or more specifically Carnosic Acid from Rosemary extracts have shown to improve shelf life across the board by reducing oxidation rates. Giving a new life to natural beauty and skin care.

However, many formulators find it difficult to work with Rosemary Extracts, it being a natural herb with its own colour pigments and herbaceous odour that can impact the identity of the formulation. Mane Kancor, a natural ingredient manufacturer has developed its own range of natural antioxidants under the brand name OxiKan, that are uniquely suitable for personal care & cosmetic application. Mane Kancor’s OxiKan CL range of products are fully refined rosemary extracts that do not impart any colour or odour upon application.

A small and yet significant step towards sustainability, supporting local community and protecting the environment. After all, true beauty comes naturally.

*Product application, usage and dosages are subject to region specific regulation.